Calla Lily Bulbs with Long Lasting Waxy Blooms for Pots and Patios

1. Plant Rhizomes After the Last Frost in Free Draining Soil

Calla lilies grow from fleshy rhizomes that are shipped dormant and ready to plant. Wait until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed, then choose a position in full sun or light afternoon shade with rich, moisture retentive but free draining soil; work in compost or well rotted manure before planting. Set each rhizome with the visible growing points facing up, about 5-8 cm (2-3 in) deep and 20-30 cm (8-12 in) apart, firm the soil gently and water once to settle it. In pots use a container at least 25 cm deep with generous drainage holes, and never let the pot stand in a saucer of water. Good drainage at planting time is the single most important step, because standing water rots rhizomes faster than anything else.

2. Even Moisture, Warmth and Regular Feeding Through the Season

These are warm season plants that grow steadily once nights stay mild. Keep the soil evenly moist from the moment shoots appear until flowering finishes, but never waterlog it; soak thoroughly at the base and then let the surface dry slightly before watering again. Water early in the day so foliage dries before evening, and give plants enough spacing for air to move between the leaves. From the three leaf stage onwards feed every two to three weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser, switching to a potassium rich feed as buds form to firm the stems and deepen the colour of the spathes. A light mulch keeps the root zone cool and holds moisture without wetting the crown.

3. Grooming, Containers and Keeping Foliage Healthy

Remove spent flower stems at the base as soon as they fade so the plant puts its energy back into the rhizome instead of setting seed, and pull away any yellowing lower leaves promptly. Wipe dust off container grown leaves and turn pots every week or two so the clump develops evenly instead of leaning towards the light. Watch for aphids, spider mites and slugs on soft new growth, and for soft rot at the crown where soil stays wet; good airflow, dry foliage and sharp drainage prevent most problems before they start. In windy exposed gardens a short cane or a sheltered wall keeps the long flower stalks from bending and bruising the blooms.

4. Bloom Habit, Flower Form and Cutting

Each spathe is thick and waxy with a neatly furled edge, holding its shape and smooth finish for an unusually long time both on the plant and in the vase. Each bloom is a single elegant spathe curled around a central yellow spadix, held well clear of the foliage on a long, clean, leafless stalk. Buds open in succession over six to eight weeks rather than in one short flush, so a small planting gives a steady supply of stems. Cut in the cool of the morning when the spathe has just begun to unfurl, recut the stems at an angle and stand them in clean, cool water; stripping nothing and changing the water every two days keeps the blooms looking fresh for ten days or more.

5. After Flowering, Dormancy and Storing for Next Year

As the display finishes, gradually reduce watering and let the foliage yellow naturally; those leaves are refilling the rhizomes for the following season. Once the tops have died back completely, lift the clumps on a dry day, brush off the soil, separate the small offsets and spread the rhizomes in a shaded, airy place for several days to cure. Store them in paper bags or dry vermiculite in a cool, dark, frost free place, checking occasionally for any soft or shrivelled pieces. In warm climates with dry winters the rhizomes can be left in the ground; elsewhere lifting and storing is the reliable way to enjoy the same plants year after year. Potted clumps can simply be kept barely dry and repotted into fresh compost when growth restarts.